Category → Cubitts Bespoke
05.10.2017 • Cubitts , Spectacles , Glasses , Bespoke , Cubitts Bespoke , Spectacle Craft , St James's
Introducing the St. James's Collection
To mark the opening of our first Atelier at 68 Jermyn Street, we have introduced the St. James’s Collection. Comprising 16 silhouettes available in 175 acetate colours as well as horn, all the frames are made-to-measure and made-to-order.
Befitting their royal surroundings, each frame is exclusively designed and made by one of our master craftsman using traditional handmade techniques in our King’s Cross workshop.
The range draws on timeless shapes from the last 200 years. It is inspired by the streets and history of our atelier's environ, such as Whitcomb Street which gives its name to a slender rounded frame, whose aligned lugs and bridge which mimic the street that follows the line of ancient thoroughfare known as Hedge Lane which existed during the reign of Henry VIII.
Available for £425 exclusively at Cubitts St. James’s where your facial measurements are taken to adapt the spectacle sizing for a perfect fit.
Visit Cubitts St. James’s to see the full collection
View our range of spectacles
View our range of sunglasses
27.09.2017 • Cubitts , Spectacles , Bespoke , Cubitts Bespoke , Soho , Spectacle Design
Welcome to the Peepers Show
To mark London Fashion Week, we produced a triptych of one-off, handmade frames by our craftsman in our King's Cross workshop, inspired by Soho's club culture and fashion subcultures.
Each frame is made up of bold shapes and colours, all featuring an overlapping lens construction and has been cut out by CNC and then finished by hand, taking up to 10 hours to produce each frame.
In celebration of our first store's environ, each frame is named after a famous venue from Soho's music and club scene, all of which have now sadly shut their doors.
- MARQUEE (orange frame) taken from the Marquee Club, which used to be on Oxford Street.
- MOKA (purple frame) taken from Moka bar, which used to be on Frith Street, the first coffee house in the country a famous hangout spot.
- JOJO (pink/red frame) after the infamous Madame Jojo's, which only closed it's doors in recent years.
Find out about our Bespoke service to create your own one off.
18.08.2017 • Cubitts , Cubitts Bespoke , Design , St James's
Introducing Cubitts St James's, our first Spectacles Atelier.
We're rather pleased to introduce Cubitts St James's, our first Spectacles Atelier.
Located at 68 Jermyn Street, between iconic British shoemakers Crockett & Jones and Trickers, we'll be rubbing shoulders with the world’s finest shoemakers, hatmakers, shirtmakers and perfumers.
Ain't she pretty?
The Cubitts Atelier will offer our ready-to-wear range but focus on bespoke spectacles and sunglasses, the unique St James's collection and water buffalo horn frames. From September, 68 Jermyn St will also offer eye testing, including a working optician area for dispensing, adjustments and repairs.
Designed with our longtime collaborator Studio DR.AW, 68 Jermyn Street takes inspiration from the street's past - using traditional materials, elegant detailing, and the skills of renowned craftsmen and women:
- The handpainted façade was made by glass gilder Alex May Hughes, using a traditional Boston gild technique.
- The facade has been removed and replaced by a traditional curved glass frontage, with hardwood joinery, and blue glazed tiles, referencing the area’s heritage as the home of gentlemen’s style.
- The consultation desks have been made by furniture maker Max Woodall, from a material palette of walnut, brass and marble.
- The walls are clad with walnut mouldings in contrasting tones, concealing an eye examination room, where our lovely optometrists provide comprehensive eye tests.
- A Cubitts library ladder is a subtle reference to the street’s academic past.
We've incorporated subtle nods to former resident, Isaac Newton, the English mathematician and all-round mastermind. The floor tiles are bold geometric shapes with a tessellating design, a nod to Newton’s ground-breaking work into geometry. Two vintage phoropters hang in the curved window, referencing his seminal work into optics (paving the way for John Dolland to create the world's first acromatic lens).
Other details include an original Thomas Cubitt SW1 lease (from 1847), a vintage Gent’s of Leicester copper clock, and Cubitts chess board, handmade from walnut, ash and brass.
Cubitts St James's is open seven days a week, from 10am - 7pm (12pm - 6pm on Sundays). Please pop by and say hello.
Store images by Ed Reeve.
22.06.2017 • Cubitts , Bespoke , Cubitts Bespoke , King's Cross
Objects by. The Consultation Chair.
Based on a mid-century design, the chairs are constructed in Bethnal Green using an oak frame and slender steel arm rests.
The linen cushions were upholstered by Ainsworth Broughton of Calvert Avenue, Hackney - London's traditional home of furniture making.
14.12.2016 • Cubitts , Sunglasses , Spectacles , Glasses , Bespoke , Cubitts Bespoke , Spectacle Craft , Vintage
Small batch production, part II
Next, we check the sizing (against both our mentor, and spectacle fitting gauge), making any adjustments with a file and polishing wheel.
Next, we put the front and temples into a series of tumbling barrels, containing wood chips and other polishing compounds.
We then drill tiny holes (a mere milimetre in radius), feed through our pins, and rivet them to our five charniere hinge.
Another hour on the polishing and glossing mops, and she's beginning to take shape.
To be continued.
12.12.2016 • Cubitts , Sunglasses , Spectacles , Glasses , Bespoke , Cubitts Bespoke , Spectacle Craft , Vintage
Small batch production, part I
For all our bespoke frames and small batch production (six to ten pieces), we still employ traditional production techniques. It's often quicker that way.
For a small run, we first create a pattern - by scribing out the design onto a piece of 6mm acetate, rubbing with chalk, and sawing and filing the line by hand. This takes many hours, but is pivotal - any defects in the silhoutte will be replicated in the final frames.
Once we've perfected the pattern, we bond it to a crystal sheet, and place it into a pantograph. This machine traces around the pattern, cutting the shape into a new slab of acetate: here in a rather lovely vintage mottle.
We remove the eyepieces, file out any marks or 'digs', then insert the lens groove using the cast iron milling table.
We then add the bridge 'bump', first by heating the frontpiece, then by placing it into a bridge 'bumping' machine - before adding nosepads in the same colour acetates.
To create the temples we first need to thin down the acetate material - 6mm would be far too thick. We run the acetate through a lathe, before 'shooting the sides' - firing heated wirecores into acetate to form the temples. These metal wires allow the temples to be adjusted to fit the wearer.
To be continued.
28.11.2016 • Cubitts , Sunglasses , Glasses , Cubitts Bespoke , Photography , Spectacle Design , Spectacle Craft
Colours, glorious colours.
Herbrand, reimagined in a range of colours: monos, mottles, havanas and stripes.
Each piece of zyl acetate is marked, scribed and cut by hand - before being placed in a tumbling barrel for at least 24 hours - to bring out the glorious lustre.
03.11.2016 • Cubitts , Sunglasses , Cubitts Bespoke , Soho , Photography , Spectacle Design , Spectacle Craft , Vintage , Design
The Ganton: Our homage to 1966 Soho.
To mark Carnaby’s partnership with the V&A for their exhibition: ‘You Say You Want a Revolution? Records and Rebels 1966-1970’, we've produced a unique, one-off frame, commemorating the fiftieth anniversary of the iconic shot of Twiggy, the world’s first supermodel - half a century after it was captured brilliantly by American fashion photographer Ronald Traeger.
Refining the silhouette of the original frame, The Ganton was made by hand over a period of six weeks, using an opaque gold zyl acetate, signature Cubitts trims, and brown Zeiss lenses.
These unique sunglasses are named after Ganton Street, the home of our Soho Workshop, running perpendicular to Carnaby Street.
The sunglasses will be on display in The Soho Workshop from today for two weeks.
Traeger arrived in Britain in the early 60s, and began brilliantly captuing the Zeitgeist of ‘Swinging London’.
He formed a fertile collaboration with Twiggy, capturing some of her most iconic moments, including this image taken in 1966. Traeger tragically died in 1968, aged just 32.
19.10.2016 • Cubitts , Sunglasses , Spectacles , Glasses , Bespoke , Cubitts Bespoke
Cubitts Bespoke: Generously oversized, paddle sided sunglasses
Cubitts Bespoke: Generously oversized, paddle sided sunglasses.
This enormous fellow is almost 160mm wide, and constructed from 8mm thick vintage acetate.
He features a saddle bridge, paddle temples with scored tips, and a double dot pinned ‘NFW’ hinge.
A true one-off, and quite the beast.
24.02.2016 • Cubitts , Spectacles , Glasses , Bespoke , Cubitts Bespoke , Spectacle Design , Spectacle Craft
Cubitts Bespoke: 3D printed stainless steel
Cubitts Bespoke: 3D printed stainless steel.
We recently created what we believe may be the world’s first 3D printed metal bridge.
And what a pleasure it is to meet you, future.
Designed by our dear friend and long term collaborator Charles Duffy, the bridge was 3D printed out of stainless steel to submillimetre precision.
It was then polished by hand on the front, and left with the original 3D printed surface on the rear, before being mechanically fixed to the handmade acetate frontpiece using four rivets.
A thing of beauty, we hope you agree.